Why visit Galveias?...
Well, there are plenty of reasons why you should - here's just a few to start with...
1. Galveias is filled with richness and simplistic beauty
When you visit Galveias you will literally be stepping back in time. Dating back to 1342 and originally named 'Vila Nova do Laranjal', Galveias still wonderfully portrays some very vintage characteristics. With its splendid narrow cobblestone streets, which make for a noisy and bumpy ride, to its magnificent old buildings some of which unfortunately are barely still standing, this pretty little village will charm the pants off you. It definitely won't disappoint the inquisitive and those who enjoy the sound of silence, especially once the summer months are over. This is the time when families return back home to the cities or to their homes abroad, leaving their senior relatives behind.
Many of its buildings are fabulous historic mansions, probably with original servant quarters, dating back a couple of centuries. You'll be amazed with the eclectic mix of styles - some very old and some very new, some whitewashed and many with a beautifully tiled facades. A few with many floors, the majority with a first floor and balcony, plus a few bungalows speckled here and there. Its delightfully interesting as not one house is the same. With so many pretty antique windows, doors, gates and wells - it's a photographer's dream. Galveias was named one of the richest locations in Portugal a few years back due to the worth of surrounding land and ancient buildings which were donated to the village by the Marques Ratao family.
Galveias comprises of new and old quarters - the majority of buildings have either been extended or re-built and in recent years a new quarter with completely new builds was established. There are also three zones which are split from the main village itself by the N244 which runs alongside it rather than through it. These are known as the 'Bairro do Queimado', 'Bairro Novo' and 'Bairro Velho'.
For a small village, Galveias certainly offers an abundance of religious buildings with some dating back to the 16th century. Its main church the Sao Lourenco stands proud at the top of its main hill and can be spotted well into the distance. It's absolutely stunning inside if you ever get the chance to see it as it's mainly closed and only opened for weekly Sunday mass. There is also one other church located in the Terreiro centre and another six chapels dotted all around the village, with the Chapel of Sao Saturnino located at the top of another hill overlooking the village, offering the most phenomenal views. There are also some wonderful gardens you can wander through as you enter Galveias from the north and an adorable fountain 'fonte' dating back to 1879.
Unfortunately, there are currently no hotels in Galveias, unless you find a nice family who will put you up, but you can find accommodation in nearby Ponte de Sor which is around 13 kms away. Galveias is c. 140 kms from Lisboa offering a really enjoyable road trip. You can either take the A6 motorway, turning off before Montemor-o-Novo, then heading towards Arraiolos, Pavia, Avis or alternatively you can head towards Coruche, Couco, Montargil, Ponte de Sor, taking in all the spectacular views this marvelous countryside has to offer.
2. Galveias is flourishing with multi-lingual & friendly residents (including four legged ones)
Many young people and families emigrated from Galveias to other parts of the world throughout the decades, especially during the 70s when the majority moved to London. So much so, today you will find that a number of those who emigrated during that time have now returned and retired in this quiet little paradise - this is the reason why you'd find a wide variety of languages spoken here today, especially English.
Galveias has always had a real and wonderful community feel - everyone knows everyone, look out for one another and greet each other when passing, unlike what the rest of us normally experience in the cities.
You'll also find many animals - a few stray cats and dogs looked after by the locals and a few farm animals still raised in backyards, orchards and surrounding farms and ranches, but these have somewhat dwindled over the years. In times gone by Galveias was full of cattle, sheep, goats, horses and donkeys. I still have memories of riding on one of my grandad's donkeys and extremely enjoying a ride on the back of an ox-cart as well as seeing many animals walking through the streets being taken to the fountain for water.
It was also amazing waking up to the sound of cockerels in the morning and barn animals throughout the day including chickens, pigs, sheep and goats. This is somewhat a dying occurrence as many of the younger residents have had to take on different types of jobs compared to their elders. Both my grandads were shepherds and spent most of their time out in the surrounding countryside farming and looking after sheep - how surreal is that.
3. Galveias is full of summer fun - slide, splash and slide again
The village was injected with life in recent years with the build of the outdoor swimming baths, Oasis. It has made Galveias a popular destination for the young and families alike. Many flock to use the slides and pools from June to September, travelling long distances, spending the day out.
In the summer months when the pool is open the silence is broken with the sound of happiness. All you can hear is children's laughter, playing and having fun in the pools as well as a few grown ups too, after all we're just big kids at heart. There is now also an outdoor gym (fitness park) for everyone to use whenever they fancy. These machines are simple, hardwearing, resistance machines with which use your own bodyweight to workout. |
4. Galveias is insanely peaceful
If you fancy getting away from it all and everyone and looking for peace and quiet, Galveias is the perfect destination. You can walk around taking in the sights at your leisure and not encounter a soul at times, especially in the dead heat. The heat can be so unbearable in the afternoons during the summer months, the majority choose to stay cool indoors.
It's so laid back, it's eerily calm, with not much movement - particularly during the winter months. Great for long walks, not only through the village but also through the surrounding sensational countryside off the beaten track. Or take a drive to the nearest lakes for some breathtaking views, either to Montargil or Maranhao. There are also some lovely towns and villages nearby, Avis is around 17 kms south and Ponte de Sor 13 kms north. From there you should visit Tramaga, Vale de Acor and Herdade das Fontainhas as they too are equally as charming.
During the summer months, you'll find the most peaceful time to chill out in Galveias is at night, you will also encounter the most astounding sky. I have never seen so many stars light up the sky as I have in the Alentejo - it's literally out of this world. Plus, the only sounds you're most likely to hear are the crickets and the church bell wonderfully ringing its tune on the hour.
5. Galveias will draw you back again - it's certainly full of 'Saudades' of times gone by
I have the most cherished and remarkable memories of Galveias. It's very dear to my heart as my ancestors originated from this special little place. I experienced such incredible moments during my childhood and love taking time out to reminisce every now and then.
After moving to London in the 70s we would visit each summer to see family members we had left behind. I had the best summer holidays ever! Like mine, Galveias was inundated with families who returned home for a short break. Every August it would be packed with visitors from all over the globe. I remember huge family reunions and having many kids to play with, both those who were visiting as well as those who lived in Galveias. It was extremely safe and I would go off to play for hours on end, walking or cycling, visiting whoever I fancied, returning home every so often and then off again. Doors were all left unlocked and mainly wide open so you could just let yourself in.
I just loved popping over to see my great grandparents, grandparents, uncles, aunties and cousins and listening to their stories. I also enjoyed using their outdoor laundry tanks as my very own little swimming pool. Talking about swimming pools, I recall us kids popping down to the local fountain 'Fonte' one very hot day, having a dip and a huge splash fight - of course we were the talk of the town and reprimanded by our parents when we got home.
I recollect the elderly men sitting in the main village gardens, holding their walking sticks, wearing their caps, long sleeve shirts and cardigans in high summer and chatting away from late afternoon into the evening, including my grandad. Cafes were also packed with men drinking and playing cards, especially the Terreiro cafe. Meanwhile, the women were at the outdoor water tanks (located behind the village fountain) washing their laundry, having a natter and singing traditional folk songs. As children, we used to pop into the cafes often for icecream and sweets - those 'sugos' were so irresistible, I can taste them now. At one point Galveias had more cafes than hot dinners, it's a shame some have now closed.
It was commonplace to see the older women, who were most likely widows, wearing black clothing head to toe, in headscarves, long sleeves and long skirts even in the intense heat with little aprons tied to their waists. Women would also wrap cloths in a circle and place it on their heads to cushion the heavy jugs and basins they had to carry through the streets from the village fountain - containing either water or laundry.
During the evenings the streets would be packed with people. Not many had electricity at home at the time, (let alone TVs), having to use paraffin lamps to light their homes instead. People therefore tended to socialise more - they would sit on their front porches, or go for walks in groups and greet and chat to everyone whilst the kids played outdoors. When my family got together for lunches and dinners it mainly ended in big debates and huge arguments between the men, either about politics or football - funnily it was always my dad against the rest.
Things were so different back then - I have memories of drinking water from big cork spoons which my grandad had handmade and toasting bread in my gran's kitchen log fire. Fresh milk from local cattle was measured and sold door to door in big steel weighing jugs. Bread was pre-ordered and left in fabric bags on door handles early morning.
With so much surrounding land and orchards within the village, Galveias was very fruitful in growing olive and fruit trees, producing olive oil and an array of super delicious fruits from oranges to figs, lemons, apples, sharon fruit, pomegranates, melons, watermelons and many, many grapes. My great uncle used to bring me bucketloads of fresh figs to eat as he knew they were my favourites. Homemade tomato jam and honey was a special treat too, we used to bring it back home from Galveias and still do so to this day.
With so much surrounding land and orchards within the village, Galveias was very fruitful in growing olive and fruit trees, producing olive oil and an array of super delicious fruits from oranges to figs, lemons, apples, sharon fruit, pomegranates, melons, watermelons and many, many grapes. My great uncle used to bring me bucketloads of fresh figs to eat as he knew they were my favourites. Homemade tomato jam and honey was a special treat too, we used to bring it back home from Galveias and still do so to this day.
As a child, my uncle used to sneak me on a thrilling bike ride on dirt tracks, at the front of his bike rather than pillion - no helmets and no health and safety back then. It's no wonder I'm quite a tomboy at heart today. It also didn't help when my father took me to the local barber's rather than a hairdresser and I nearly went home bald - all my locks were gone to my mum's despair.
I also really loved the days we spent at the nearby lake 'Barragem de Montargil'. During these day trips we would drive through the dirt tracks into the countryside, rather than on main roads and the drive would seem endless until we reached the most beautiful setting. Parked the cars under trees for shade and laid out the rugs, the picnic chairs and tables ready for a delicious picnic. Our mums would cook using a little gas stove or build a BBQ. My dad used to put up posts in the water so us kids would have swimming boundaries - even though the water seemed very still, it had a slight undercurrent. As well as sailing trips in the rubber dinghy, we also used to spend hours on my swing, which my dad used to hang from a tree. We did so much swinging over the years until one day the rope finally snapped and someone went flying forwards (I can't remember who). Adults spent their time fishing, chatting and playing cards and the kids would have so much fun playing lots and lots of games, the only downside was the 'not so fun' rule following lunch. We'd have to wait 3-4 hours before being allowed back in the water - a Portuguese digestion tale.
The only downfall with taking the road tracks would be that you couldn't drive that fast as you could lose control of the car at any moment in the sand. On one occasion my dad did lose control of the car and knocked down seven trees (skinny ones that is) - he hit them head on and they went right over the bonnet and the roof. All the passengers were very shaken up but luckily no-one was hurt and really lucky for me that I wasn't one of them - it probably would have scarred me for life and I already panic with most things. The car was severely damaged but amazingly we still managed to drive it back to London that year. On another occasion one of the cars in the convoy got stuck in deep mud. It was always wise to travel in a big group as there were no mobile phones to call for help. Looking back, we really did have the best times ever.
Although Galveias is renowned for being really quiet it also has its noisy moments,. Tractors used to drive by full of men and women being taken to the countryside to work on farms and in the fields, very early hours of the morning - they would make such a racket on the cobblestones and were an alarming wake up call, which was way too early for the rest of us on holiday.
Galveias is also noisy when the village 'Festas' festivals take place. We always enjoy going along to these for the tasty food and entertainment. It also once had a folk dance group (O rancho), I don't believe it exists today but recall attending the rehearsals with my cousin when I was a young teen, I just couldn't help myself and had to join in and dress up in the traditional folklore outfits too. I believe Galveias still has a brass band to this day which perform every so often - I remember seeing my uncle playing the trumpet when he was very young.
Galveias is also noisy when the village 'Festas' festivals take place. We always enjoy going along to these for the tasty food and entertainment. It also once had a folk dance group (O rancho), I don't believe it exists today but recall attending the rehearsals with my cousin when I was a young teen, I just couldn't help myself and had to join in and dress up in the traditional folklore outfits too. I believe Galveias still has a brass band to this day which perform every so often - I remember seeing my uncle playing the trumpet when he was very young.
As teenagers we were banned from entering the village 'Boite' nightclub - which looked like an ordinary house from the outside - it was located opposite the village Fountain. It was hugely recognised by the locals for its shady reputation. Most likely a huge disappointment for the men when it closed down many moons ago.
Galveias is truly a joyful and unique place and once visited, is never forgotten...
There's now even a romantic novel named Galveias, describing some of the fascinating places we see today, written by JOSE LUIS PEIXOTO. Who would have guessed that one of Portugal's most gifted authors would have come from... Galveias!
For further information on Galveias, its surroundings and Alentejo please visit our Destinations pages for more details as follows:
Discover Galveias
Discover Avis
Discover Barragem de Maranhao
Discover Ponte de Sor
Discover Montargil
Discover Barragem de Montargil
Discover Alentejo
For more beepbeepeurope stories & tips
Photography: beepbeepeurope
© Copyright. All rights reserved.
© Copyright. All rights reserved.