When hot in Madrid take to the water at Pantano de San Juan Reservoir

16/3/2023

When hot under the collar in Madrid why not take to the water! Did you ever think that when visiting Spain's capital city in the centre of the country that you could possibly take a trip to a beach for a revitalising dip? Well think again... here's our first recommendation.

SAN JUAN RESERVOIR - Pantano (Embalse) de San Juan

Following a few stints in scorching Madrid, we finally decided to venture further out to pastures new. On one of those sweltering days we very much wanted to take a dip and escape the city madness and heat and do as the locals do. So we checked out the blue water areas on Google Maps, decided on one and headed west out of the city for a short road trip. Our first gem of a find was the San Juan Reservoir which is situated around 70 kms west from Madrid.

From inside a moving car, through the window the views of the river and the green tree-filled hills surrounding it are lush.

Inside a moving car, through the window the views of the river and the green tree-filled hills surrounding it are breathtaking.

ROAD TRIP:

DRIVE TIME: Approx 1-1 1/4 hrs by car

ROUTE: Take the A-5 west towards Badajoz | Next the M-501 via Boadilla del Monte, Villaviciosa de Odón, Brunete and Navas del Rey | Exit at San Martin de Valdeiglesias for El Muro Beach | Or the M-957 for Virgen de la Nueva Beach.

PARKING: Parking is free with many open air car parks dotted around the reservoir.

Several cars are parked between pine trees. A black dog is in the foreground on a leash pulling to go in the opposite direction.

A beautiful lake is in full view through a gap in between tall pine trees with a road leading downhill in the foreground.

By the time we arrived it was heaving. To our shock horror, we weren't the only ones to have chosen to visit the Pantano that day, it felt like the entire population of Madrid had had the same idea and had come out to play too. We later discovered that the Reservoir has a reputation of being a 'Madrileno' haunt which fills up most weekends during the summer months - they consider it their 'Madrid Beach'.

We struggled to find a space so we drove right to the top, parking opposite El Serengueti Bar (Pelayos de la Presa) in between some pine trees. Once parked it took us a 5-10 minutes walk to reach the water's edge. Unfortunately, all the spaces were taken up by the water's edge too so we had to keep walking and walking, up and down via a forest track which had a rugged, rocky and uneven terrain, parallel to the reservoir (not great in flipflops I must add!!). It took us around half an hour to find a vacant spot, miles away from everything. If venturing out for a long walk in the heat we suggest that you pack light, but do take the essentials especially drinking water and suitable footwear!

On rugged, rocky, uneven and earthy terrain. A tall pine tree is surrounded by bushes, trees, a lake and green rocky hills.

Later that day we discovered that this spot may have been available for a reason as we spotted some nudist bathers. Without realising, we had settled ourselves next to the nudist part of the reservoir (completely missing the large sign posted on a rock!). Even though the walk was a tad long and tiring the views of our surroundings were spectacular (not referring to the nudists here!).

A couple are sunbathing on granite slabs by a splendid lake next to large rocks with green tree-filled hills in the background.

A few people are dotted along the shoreline of a lake, sitting on granite slabs or in the water as a sail boat passes by.

We parked ourselves on some rocks (obviously not a beach at this end of the reservoir), and a tad uncomfortable, but it was the perfect setting for a dip in the cool blue waters. And if we had been alone, it would have been an idyllic haven.

Following another long walk back, mostly uphill, we decided to have a well earned drink at the El Serengueti Bar (a beer and a sangria for 5.50 eur).

On a rugged, rocky, uneven and earthy track the trunk of a tall pine tree is to the left with lots of dry bushes and trees ahead.

Two glasses, a beer bottle on a table. One filled with beer, one with a red drink in an outdoor cafe with a lake in the background.

THE NITTY GRITTY

Built in 1955, with water running from the Alberche river, the reservoir has definitely a lot to offer and in recent years it achieved the first Blue Flag for its main beach, the Virgen de la Nueva. The reservoir is around 70 metres deep in some places and has approx 14 kms of beach, so there's plenty of different spots to choose from and lots to keep you entertained. It's ideal for swimming, sunbathing, water sports and picnics. The reservoir also offers a string of hidden coves with large granite slabs great for climbing/hiking activities as well as camping facilities for those who wish to stay a little longer.

A few people are dotted along the shoreline of a lake, sitting, sunbathing on granite slabs or bathing in its blue waters.

THINGS TO DO

VIRGEN DE LA NUEVA BEACH

Reachable via San Martin de Valdeiglesias, this beach is the most popular with restaurants, beach bars and picnic areas and a couple of activity clubs close to the shore.

You will also find the ruins of the Virgen de la Nueva Chapel nearby.

EL MURO BEACH

Reachable via Pelayos de la Presa, at El Muro Beach you will find the main dock, many beach bars/restaurants, a couple of activity clubs, the Royal Nautical Club and the Ardilla Roja campsite. This beach is located next to the dam wall.

In the countryside at the bottom of a cement dam wall with many arches, surrounded by trees and dry shrubs and vegetation.

A number of small yachts are sailing on beautiful green waters, surrounded by very green, rocky hills in the background.

Both beaches offer watersports and activities from pedalos, kayaking, paddleboarding, wakeboarding, waterskiing, flyboarding, windsurfing, sailing to boat trips, plus lifeguard services until September.

A small yacht is sailing around a lake on beautiful blue waters, surrounded by several very green, rocky hills in the background.

Two kayakers are rowing in deep blue waters in a beautiful lake, surrounded by several very green, rocky hills in background.

Or you can choose to visit the Lancha del Yelmo cove next to the nudist cove via a signposted forest track or the Veracruz estate beach, and the Calas de Guisando estate beach.

The coves of Lancha del Yelmo and the Cerro de San Esteban (near El Muro) are also great for those who love mountain biking, hiking and rock climbing, with the latter having one of the best viewpoints on the reservoir.

You can even partake in a spot of archery too, if you so wish!

A number of people are dotted along the shoreline of a lake, sitting, sunbathing on granite slabs or enjoying a dip in the water.

Deep green rocky hills filled with trees surround a stunning lake. Several people are enjoying a dip, sailing and kayaking.

NEARBY/SURROUNDINGS

The reservoir is encircled by pine forests and several towns such as Pelayos de la Presa, Cebreros, El Tiemblo, San Martin de Valdeiglesias and Navas del Rey.

HISTORY

For those who are more inquisitive why not check out BARCELO to see 'What Lies Beneath' these wonderful deep waters.

You can also find more details and photos of this wonderful place at WILDSWIMMINGHOLES

A tall tree stands proudly at the water's edge with its branches overhanging onto a beautiful blue lake surrounded by hills.

Ultimately, if you ever find yourself sweltering in Madrid and fancy a dip in cool waters, why not head down to the Reservoir - just remember to get there early!